Japan day 10/13 - Kamakura, Enoshima, Fujisawa

This was one of the days I was most hyped for, a trip to Kamakura and Enoshima! Getting up at 8 AM I thought it would be early enough, but it was still a kinda long ride to Kamakura, somehow I arrived after 10 AM. The sun sets around 4:30 PM so that was pressuring me a bit as most non urban areas are of course prettiest during the day. And I'd rather walk an hour than spend 5 minutes figuring out how the bus system works!

As you may have heard, Kamakura is the place to be if you love seeing Buddhist temples in every shape and size. Apparently there are over 60 but maybe I don't like them THAT much. I selected a few favorites. The moment you step out of the train station you are greeted by the big torii followed by a long path with those stone lanterns, and many trees and would be flowers but unfortunately it's late autumn. First I went by the konbini cause I was starving after that train ride. They had some hot mac and cheese you couldn't say no to! Then I went onto that path, if you follow it all the way you will end up at another long path that leads to the main giant Shinto shrine Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, there were billions of people going that way so I decided to turn right. There was an area with a torii leading to a smaller shrine on an island in the middle of a lake, and a bit further you could stand next to the lake and you could buy feed for the carps. There were hundreds of pigeons and gulls eagerly waiting, most docile birds I ever met 🤍

A bit more east and there I found the Sugimoto Temple, it's ancient and beautiful and lives in harmony with the forest on the hill it's build on. You could get quite high up and take pictures of the city from here. There is also a famous moss staircase that you're not allowed to climb, but it's beautiful on its own to behold.

Then a bit south east of that is Houkokuji, some see it as the greater Tokyo metropolitan area version of Kyoto's Arashiyama, just like that it has a beautiful bamboo forest, zen garden, temple, you name it. Quite some tourists but not as much as Kyoto. They also served you matcha tea if you bought a ticket for it, it sounded a bit touristic, but why not... I am after all one of them 🥹 It was nice but very bitter, they served some sweets with it too. Then on the way out I asked for a goshuin of course, but I misunderstood that you should request it before you go in and then they have it ready when you get out, so had to wait for a while. Maybe the matcha wasn't a good idea, I was so caffeinated, most of the way back to the center I just ran, but was then so worn out, it was food time again!

Finished resting, then went on to visit Sasuke Inari Shrine (was gonna say this is not a Naruto reference but then remembered how many fox statues they have so I'm not sure anymore). But on the way there I was distracted by how pretty the steep uphill part to Genjiyama Park was, so I climbed all the way up there with a lot of regret (it was 20 degrees that day for some reason) still wasn't unhappy with what was up there, pretty views, statues, trees, and apparently a shrine I missed. There was a vending machine with a weird energy drink so I tried that and then went on to the fox shrine. As expected it was super beautiful with all the torii gategateways(?) and the thousands of fox statues they placed everywhere. (here's my full recording if you like heavy breathing and shaky videos xD )

Then continued on to the Kotoku-In Temple, aka the one with the giant Buddha statue. It's said to be almost 800 years old, about 6-7 times the height of a person. Everything around it has been destroyed many times by earthquakes, typhoons, tsunamis, but Buddha still stands undefeated. The back of the statue had like some kind of windows so it made me wonder if you can go in there somehow.

There was a lot to see, it was a very popular spot, but it was nearing closing time so it wasn't too busy. Of course they had a giant souvenir place, and outside they had gachapons machines that I had to plunder.

Next stop was Enoshima, sadly it was becoming dark already so I wouldn't be able to see anything during the day, but that was most of the trip anyway. I caught the Enoden train (with its nostalgic majestic look) at the Hase station and took it to I think Shichirigahama station. 

 

 

There I got off, had some konbini snacks and went to the beach. The ocean was very calm so it felt safe being there. I hadn't seen a sea or ocean in ages so it had me mesmerized for a while. This is also one of the first famous sights you see in the Seishun Buta Yarou anime so it had me extra hyped 🤩 With all the joy in the world I walked across the beach from here until as far I could get to the sea candle, about 1,5km. Half of the beach was in my shoes and socks at the end but it was worth it.

Once I got to the island it felt like the atmosphere changed drastically, to something dreamy or paradise like. Pretty architecture and lights and little shops everywhere, sadly the majority of them closed already. The shopping street started with a green torii and then led up to a lot of staircases and a shrine dedicated to the goddess who supposedly shaped the island and a big dragon she subdued as seen on the cute ema (wooden plaques at shrines and temples where you write your wishes on and hang them), there was also a statue of the dragon and a donation box in the middle of a pond, you're supposed to cleanse your money with water using those little baskets and then toss them into the box, I did poorly 🙈

Now on to the sea candle, I wasn't sure how to get there and walked all around the island and later learned about the direct entrance next to the shrine... This sea candle is like that rotating light you see on lighthouses. To my great surprise there was not just the sea candle but also an extensive garden with light decorations they set up for winter, it was absolutely stunning. I made a recording of this too: 

 

It was also possible to get all the way to the top so I did that! You could get a clear view of the island and the entire town, or you would be able to if it wasn't so dark. It almost physically hurt to leave this place but I had to if I wanted to see everything else still (and take a lot of anime related pictures...)

From Katase-Enoshima station I made my way to Tsujido to take a picture of a stage, then to Shounandai for a library (sadly closed but still counting it as a success), then to Fujisawa for the station itself and the Denny's restaurant nearby. Time was tight but I was super hungry so decided to have some dinner and ordered an eggplant burger, idk still if it was really vegetarian but it was delicious so let's say yes...

Last goal, riding the Enoshima monorail. I finished eating and paid, then zoomed back to Fujisawa station, all the way back to Katase-Enoshima. There I really had to put my running skills to the test and make it to the last monorail train leaving from Shounan-Enoshima, it was only about a kilometer, it's okay! Out of breath I arrived there and then noticed you have to climb like 4 or 5 stairs, did that and luckily could just beep through the gates with the Suica card, and sat down in the train. The doors closed right behind me and it went. I double checked the schedule and it was really the last train. It was as expected very dark and sadly there wasn't much to see, but I tried creating a recording anyway! 

 

It went all the way to Oofuna. From there and with one more switch I could make it all the way back to Ueno. I already missed the last train that went to Uguisudani... Bought a snack into the konbini to get energized for the last walk and somehow they also had Seishun Buta Yarou merch, they knew!!! But I was so happy to be back at the hostel later, ufffffffff😤